Best posts made by MudHappy
posted in MudRunner - Modding read more

I'm by no means an expert on the subject(just figured all this stuff out...literally...yesterday). But, with a little lot of trial and error, I managed to find a quick and easy way to convert many ST vehicles/mods to MR. So I'm going to share that method with you here. And, this should go without saying, don't use this method to convert mods that you didn't make and post them to other sites, or to the workshop(OTHER THAN AS PRIVATE). You will likely piss somebody off if you do. And, depending on the individual, that could result in bad things for everyone. Like the original author pulling their mod(s) from the workshop. And/or refusing to release any more of their mods publically. We...obviously...don't want that to happen now do we? So be cool...mmm'k? Thanks!

Requirements:

1. Files to convert

I personally don't care who's they are or where you got them(that's your business...not mine). I know for a fact there are some folks that do care QUITE A BIT about such things. So...keep that in mind. If you feel like you should ask the original author for their permission first before converting one of their mods...then by all means do that. If you don't, then keep this shit to yourself please. Don't ask, don't tell. No harm, no foul. Keep it your business...and it ain't nobody else's business! Simple stuff!

O.k...all that having been said...if you have a Steam copy of ST installed you can use the files from the mods you subscribe to in the workshop. Once on your PC, they can typically be found here C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\workshop\content\263280(if not then you should be able to figure out where they would be instead). To decrypt the numbers used as the names of the folders found therein(and thereby locate which particular vehicle/mod you're wanting to convert) you need to go to the workshop and search for the page of the particular vehicle/mod. Once you find the page you're looking for, what I do(since I'm usually searching from within the app) is go to an open place on the page and right click > Copy Page URL. Then paste the URL in a text document for future reference. If you're searching the workshop through a web browser you can copy the URL from the address bar. In the URL is the key to decode the folder number for the vehicle/mod. It will look like this id=1994233785. That id number is the name of the folder with whatever mod you're looking for. If you download the vehicle/mod from another source the folder(s) will likely already be named accordingly.

2. SpintiresMod(latest version preferably)

There are other tools that can be used to convert meshes. But this is the one I use and recommend.

3. Spintires Mudrunner - Editor Beta

This is what makes the process so quick and so easy. The editor was built to do a lot of the work for you. You just need to know exactly how to use it for the purpose.

Process of conversion:

This is how I taught myself how to do it. And the method does have its limitations. Like I said...I'm no expert. But I have found a method that works. And it is relatively quick and easy. But to the best of my knowledge it won't work in all cases. Specifically, if there's a folder named "meshes" in the folder with the vehicle/mod files, then this method isn't going to work for you. Because the mesh files in that folder can't be converted with a mesh converter tool. Since they aren't consolidated into a single mesh file. It's 1 mesh split between 2 files. An .X file and an XML file. What we need is 1 mesh file for each mesh, and in neither .X or XML form. Which brings us to...

Step 1:

Open the folder containing the files for the vehicle/mod you want to convert. If there's a folder named "meshes", you are done with the process. No conversion for you(with this process at least). If not, continue to step 2.

EDIT(03/27/18): I've discovered the process for converting many mods with meshes in .X + XML form(in the folder named "meshes") is very similar to the method described below. In some instances it's almost exactly the same except for starting at Step 5. Since the editor will automatically create the _m and _t folders, and populate them with converted single file/"extensionless" mesh files and texture files. However, in many cases the mod files will need at least one stage of conversion prior to following the steps detailed below(or what you'll end up with is a non-functional mod). This is going to be a significant road block in many of those cases. Because unless you know how to manually convert said mods you will need a tool to do it for you. Good News: Such a tool exists. Bad News: It's literal "Unobtainium". Some older mods will even require 2 stages of conversion first. Good News: The tool used for the first stage of conversion is still available here. Bad News: It won't do you any good to use it if you can't complete the second stage of conversion afterwards(with the "Unobtainium" Mod Converter V2.0). So...if you get lucky you won't need to do any prior stages of conversion. If you don't get lucky...you're pretty much screwed. Oh...and I forgot one thing...Worst News: In some cases using all the conversion tools in the world will not yield a mod that is functional in MR.

Step 2:

Inside the folder containing the files for the vehicle/mod you want to convert, create 2 new folders. One named _m and one named _t.

Step 3:

Copy all of the mesh files inside the main folder to the new folder named _m. Then copy all of the texture files inside the main folder to the new folder named _t. Then delete all of the mesh and texture files from the main folder. Then, if there's a folder named _templates, you can delete that at this point too.

Step 4:

Open SpintiresMod and click Tools > Mesh Convert. Make sure the box next to Change FileVersion is checked. Make sure 20160902 is showing in the selection tab next to Change FileVersion. Then click the ... tab. Navigate to the folder containing the meshes to convert(the one you just named _m). One by one convert each mesh file(select then click Save). When all of the mesh files are converted, go back to the folder named _m and delete all of the .BAK files.

Step 5:

Open Spintires Mudrunner - Editor Beta. Under File View right click on the _mods folder. Select Create New Mod. Double left click on(or left click the + box next to) the _mods folder. There will be a folder with a random name(or maybe even a couple of them). Right click on that folder(or any of the _mods sub-folders). Then select Import Spintires-2016 Mod Content.... Click Yes when asked to proceed. Navigate to the folder containing the files for the vehicle/mod you want to convert and click OK. Click OK again when asked.

Step 6:

Right click on the folder you just imported your mod files to and select Publish Mod.... Then enter a Title. Click autogenerate to create a preview. Make sure the visibility is set to Private(unless you are converting your own mod and want others to have access to it). Then click Publish. Then wait until it's finished uploading your mod to the workshop.

Step 7:

Go to the MudRunner workshop and click on Your Files. Then click on the mod you just uploaded. Then click on the subscribe button. Then find the ID number for it(as described previously).

Step 8:

Go to C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\workshop\content\675010(or wherever your workshop content is). Find the folder with the ID number you're looking for. Open it and copy all the files and folders inside of the zipped folder. Then go to the folder with the original files for the mod you're converting and delete all the files and folders in it except the _m and _t folders. Then paste the files you copied from the workshop contents zipped folder.

EDIT: I thought I tried this and I couldn't make it work. But then I just tried it again and it did work. Apparently you can do it vice versa too. As in copy and paste the _m and _t folders to the zipped workshop contents folder. Or you can do it both ways. The problem I remember having was not being able to copy all of the texture files to the zipped workshop contents folder. In which case you can only do it the other way. The problem of not being able to copy certain files to the zipped workshop contents folder seems to randomly occur for me. Sometimes I can, sometimes I can't. So I just try to avoid it whenever possible.

Step 9:

You're done!!! For the most part. What you have now is a folder with converted mod files that can be manually installed into MR. They will be converted enough that the game will recognize them and the vehicle will be playable. If all went as planned. The mod will not work unless manually installed. Apparently not. You might also be able to finish installing it in the zipped workshop contents folder. Because...the workshop mod files are incomplete. They're missing, you guessed it, the mesh and texture files in the _m and _t folders. I'm not sure why that is. You tell me.

BUT...you're not really done either. There's actually quite a bit left to do. You need to go through the XML files and make some corrections if you want the vehicle to be fully compatible with, and to perform optimally within, MR. I'll go over those things here soon(will edit them into this post). And hopefully discuss other conversion options here as well.

EDIT(03/20/18): I'm having MAJOR issues trying to get the XML mods situation sorted out. Just about everything I try to do ends up breaking things. And I can't figure out how or why. As soon as I get it all figured I'll post an update.

Until then you can take a poke at it yourself if you want. I asked @Kingpinn if I could post the link to his mod conversion tutorial, which has a bunch of good info on the XML modding process. He said it was cool. So here's that: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Yod1e_gdQzRloO5d1NAQZ2Q5JjHb_HzaIHq9qOWyj7k/edit?usp=sharing

Also take a look at the trucks template found here C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\Spintires MudRunner\Media.zip_templates(or wherever MR is installed). It's not a bad idea to take a look at some of the default trucks and wheels XMLs too. If you can't find those you have no business doing any of this...

UPDATE(4/18/18): I'm going to try to fill in some of the blanks as far as XML editing.

First, and most importantly, the wheels. I've found that, in nearly all cases after conversion with this method, the wheels XML(s) will need edited to work as intended.

For example:

<TruckWheel
    Mesh="wheels/4jc2i3n"
    HardpointOffsetZ="0.0" - LINES WITH "0" VALUES ARE GARBAGE DATA AND SHOULD ALWAYS BE DELETED!!!
    Radius="0.52"
    Width="0.33"
    Friction_Numeric="2.2"
    SubstanceFriction_Numeric="2"
    TracksTexture="Offroad"
    Mass="200"
>
    <WheelFriction BodyFriction="1.5" SubstanceFriction="0.5" />
    <WheelSoftness RadiusOffset="0.03" SoftForceScale="0.12" />
</TruckWheel>

Should be changed to:

<_templates Include="trucks" />
<TruckWheel
    Mesh="wheels/4jc2i3n"
    Radius="0.52"
    Width="0.33"
    Mass="200"
>
    <WheelTracks _template="Offroad" /> - WHEEL TRACKS TEMPLATES ALSO WORK AS TRACKSTEXTURE!!!
    <WheelFriction BodyFriction="2.2" SubstanceFriction="2.0" />
    <WheelSoftness RadiusOffset="0.03" SoftForceScale="0.12" />
</TruckWheel>

IMPORTANT NOTE: For positioning, the values are shown as distances along the X, Y, and Z axis. In most cases as:

(X = Front +/Rear - ; Y = Up +/Down - ; Z = Left +/Right -) Center = 0

Though occasionally X, Y, and Z are out of order. And you have to figure out which is which through trial and error.

Now that you know that...next up would be the camera. It will be pretty messed up until you fix it.

Example:

<Camera CabinPos="(0.72; 2.35; 0)" Center="(0; 0; 0)" />

For a good starting point change that to:

<Camera RadiusMultiplier="0.5"> - I USE "0.5" AS DEFAULT
    <Cockpit
        _template="Default"
        ControlsPos="( ;  ; )"
	ViewPos="( ;  ; )"
	WindshieldDiffuseTexture="texturename__d_a.dds" 
    >
	<Rear
            _template="Default"
	/>
    </Cockpit>
</Camera>

Then you can fill in, change, and/or add to, the values from there.

The WindshieldDiffuseTexture can be found in the vehicle mesh file listed here:

<PhysicsModel Mesh="trucks/4jc2ih4">

It will likely be labeled as:

MeshParts="Glass"

And what you're looking for is:

DiffuseMap="texturename__d_a.dds" 

Hint: The windshield texture will probably need to be edited to increase the transparency for a more usable cockpit view. I use paint dot net for this. Open the file and, under Layers, select Layer Properties. Then lower the Opacity value and save it.

That same mesh file is where you'll find the SteeringWheelPos values too.

<SocketPoints>
    <SocketPoint Name="SteeringWheel" Pos="(0.37; 1.75; 0.30)" />
</SocketPoints>

Which brings me to the next element. The driver.

Example:

<Driver Pos="(-0.11; 1.35; 0.35)" LegsOffset="(-0.18; 0.06; 0.12)" />

To that add the SteeringWheelPos like so:

<Driver Pos="(-0.11; 1.35; 0.35)" LegsOffset="(-0.18; 0.06; 0.12)" SteeringWheelPos="(0.37; 1.75; 0.30)" />

The vehicle lights can be pretty time comsuming. And don't really need edited to work. But they'll look better if you take the time to. Which is more than I want to explain in full. But basically you should at least add some _templates to all the Lights, Models, and Flares. As well as add some additional Flares, if desired. Such as the BlueStreak and BeaconStreak.

Examples:

Headlights(all lights turned on/off with headlight switch)

<HeadLight
    _template="Default"
/>
<HeadLight>
    <Model
         _template="HeadLightRay" 
         Mesh="env/light_ray"
    />
    <Flare
         _template="HeadLight"
         Reflections="true"
    />
    <Flare 
         _template="BlueStreak" - ADDS A BLUE COLORED FLARE LINE EFFECT
    />

FOR CORNER MARKERS AND TURN SIGNALS:
    
    <Light
         _template="Beacon"
    />
    <Flare
         _template="MarkerBeacon"
         Reflections="true"
    />
    <Flare 
         _template="BeaconStreak" - ADDS A YELLOW COLORED FLARE LINE EFFECT
    />

FOR TAIL LIGHTS:
  
    <Light    
         _template="IgnitionSignalRed"
    />
    <Flare
         _template="IgnitionSignalRed"
         Reflections="true"
    />
</HeadLight>

Reverse lights(all lights turned on/off when the transmission is shifted into/out of reverse).

<ReverseSignals>
    <Light
         _template="ReverseSignal"
    />
    <Flare
         _template="ReverseSignal"
         Reflections="true"
    />
    <Flare 
         _template="BlueStreak"  
    />
</ReverseSignals>

Stop lights(all lights turned on/off when the brakes are applied/released).

<StopSignals>
    <Light
         _template="StopSignal"
    />
    <Flare
         _template="StopSignal"
         Reflections="true"
    />
</StopSignals>

Running lights(all lights turned on/off with the ignition switch, and/or with the engine running/stopped)

<Ignition>
    <Light
         _template="IgnitionSignalRed"
    />
    <Flare
         _template="IgnitionSignalRed"
         Reflections="true"
    />
    <Light
         _template="IgnitionSignalWhite"
    />
    <Flare
         _template="IgnitionSignalWhite"
         Reflections="true"
    />
    <Flare 
         _template="BlueStreak"  
    />
    <Light
         _template="Beacon"
    />
    <Flare
         _template="MarkerBeacon"
         Reflections="true"
     />
    <Flare
         _template="BeaconStreak"
    />
</Ignition>

That's most of the important stuff you might want to edit XML-wise. And/or that isn't fully described in Kingpinn's tutorial(linked above and here).

Also check out my vid!!!
Youtube Video

Special thanks to Nix for providing the files I used to demonstrate the process. They were used strictly for demonstration purposes(and have since been deleted). So you don't need to worry about me doing anything else with them.

posted in MudRunner - Modding read more

Somebody just asked me a question I'd asked myself not too long ago. How do you get SpintiresMod to work with ReShade? Which I couldn't find sufficient info to answer properly via google. So I had to figure it out, pretty much, on my own. Since my pride generally prevents me giving up and asking on a forum(or anywhere else for that matter).

Anyhow. This is how I do it.

Step 1:

Install SpintiresMod. Or do nothing if already installed.

Step 2:

Download the installer for ReShade. Click on the ReShade_Setup.exe. Press 'Ctrl" while clicking Select game to get the ReShade32.dll and ReShade64.dll.

Step 3:

Install Reshade as Direct3D 9. Then open the game and do the tutorial setup bit. So when you're done you'll have the reshade-shaders folder and a premade effects/textures.ini configuration setting file in you MR directory. Then close the game.

Step 4:

Open your MR directory. Delete the three d3d9 files(text doc., config settings, and .dll). Then copy and paste the ReShade32.dll to your MR directory.

Step 5:

Go to C:\Program Files (x86)\SpintiresMod\Install and copy the d3d9.dll found there(or wherever SpintiresMod is installed). Then paste it in your MR directory.

Step 6:

Open STM and go to Game settings > Options and make sure the box next to Override original "d3d9.dll" is checked. Then click browse and direct it to C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\SpinTires MudRunner\ReShade32.dll(or wherever MR is installed). Click Apply and OK.

Step 7:

Open MR again. Open the ReShade configuration menu(Shift + F2). Go to Settings and add \reshade-shaders\Shaders to the end of the Effect Search Paths. Then add \reshade-shaders\Textures to the end of the Texture Search Paths. You can also set whatever else how you want it now too(like the Effects Toggle Key). These settings will then be stored in the ReShade config settings file in your MR directory(which will be created in step 8).

Step 8:

Then go to the Home menu again and click continue to start the tutorial again. EXCEPT this time selecting your premade effects/textures.ini from the start(click the down pointer to the left of +, it will show up below the bar, click on it to select it, it will jump up into the bar). Then click your way through the rest of the tutorial and go to Settings if you want to select performance mode. Then go to the Home menu one more time and click Reload. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnnnnnndddd....................wait for it.................................YOUR DONE!

I know. It's convoluted AF. But it works. If you know a better/faster way please do tell.

EDIT: I figured out that you don't need to close and reopen MR between steps 7 & 8. Just use the Reload feature when everything is setup how you want it.

UPDATE(3/22/18): Our friend @blasc has suggested a, perhaps, better way. By simply renaming the .dll installed by ReShade to dxgi.dll. "Better" in the sense that you might be able to get better framerates by using this method. It shouldn't matter which .dll was installed by ReShade. It can be d3d9.dll, the manually installed ReShade32.dll, or even opengl32.dll. ALL 3 RESHADE INSTALLED .DLL FILES ARE IDENTICAL EXCEPT FOR THEIR NAMES(I'VE CONFIRMED THIS BY COMPARING ALL OF THEM WITH A HEX EDITOR). So I'm not sure how or why changing the name of the .dll makes any difference(but let's assume it does). All I do know is you can change the name of any of the ReShade installed .dll files to dxgi.dll and end up with the exact same file. I don't really want to rewrite my method above to include this. And, so far as I can tell, I don't really have to. All one needs to do is rename whichever ReShade installed .dll(d3d9.dll or ReShade32.dll) to dxgi.dll, and rename the config settings file(d3d9 or ReShade) to dxgi. The d3d9 or ReShade32 text document/log file can be deleted(since it will be recreated automatically as dxgi). And, of course, you will also need to redirect SpintiresMod to dxgi.dll.

BTW, I've tested this and it doesn't seem to make much(if any) difference on my system. At best it seems like I might be seeing a 1-2 FPS increase with the dxgi.dll compared to with the ReShade32.dll. At worst there's no difference at all. It definitely doesn't seem to hurt performance. But YMMV.

posted in MudRunner - Modding read more

Just because somebody has something to say about you or your work that doesn't glorify you or it...doesn't make them a troll. You know who says they are? A TROLL!!! You need to check yourself. Seriously. If you knew how much of a self-pitying, self-absorbed, self-righteous, narcissistic, holier-than-though, megalomaniac you portray yourself as...you'd have no trouble understanding why drama follows you around like stink on shit. BECAUSE YOU ARE ACTUALLY THE SOURCE OF IT!!! GET A CLUE!!!

posted in MudRunner - Technical Support read more

NEWS FLASH!!! IF YOU DON'T WANT TO USE THE BROKEN GAME VERSION 18/03/06 YOU CAN OPT OUT BY INSTALLING THE PREVIOUS GAME VERSION 29/01/18b AS A BETA. THANK GOD!!!

I posted the following before knowing I had said option...

Apparently you no listen to me!!! IS BROKEN. I TELL YOU THIS. AND YOU NO CARE. YOU FORCE BROKEN UPDATE ON US ANYWAY. WHAT'S THE DEAL WITH THAT!?

0_1522775514509_9891211.png

And this stupidness is back now too.
0_1522776615973_WhatTheFuckIsThisShit.jpg

posted in MudRunner - Modding read more

Sooo...the dust thing is kinda cool. I think it needs toned down just a tad though. Pretty easy to stir up a cloud so big and thick you can't see a damn thing. But I'm sure if I did a little comparative analysis I could figure out how to adjust that myself.

Anywho...one more thing. I noticed this a while back when I was attempting to convert my ST mud mods to MR. You can't really do anything to the <Mud><Substance> lines without causing things to get a little, more or less, weird. I never noticed it with ST(but that was a long time ago, and I might not have looked hard enough).

What am I getting at? What I call the "Runaway UAZ Problem". I'm not sure what all vehicles it affects. But for sure the UAZ. Not sure if it's because it so light. Or something to do with the wheels. Or both. Or...I don't really know what. But it appears that the <Mud><Substance> values are tuned PRECISELY to eliminate it. It doesn't take hardly any fiddling around with those values to set it off. Particularly, but not necessarily, things that would make the mud "easier". And your mod sets it off nicely.

What exactly is the problem? A UAZ that gets sucked along through the mud/dirt without any throttle being applied. Kinda hard to explain in so many words. So I made a vid to show it.

What you need to know before watching is that at no point after the 0:16 mark did I touch the throttle at all. Oh...and this is with your mod minus the textures and dust.
Youtube Video

If you're interested in fixing it. I did a little messing around and seemed to be able to make it a little better just by lowering the SubstanceFriction(from the value you set it at). It didn't seem to alter your mod in a way that made it much(if any) less effective either. But I didn't really test it out very much. So YMMV. Just shooting some ideas at you.

posted in MudRunner - Modding read more

Yeah. I think I know what the problem is for me. It's not installing the beta correctly. The beta version is 18/03/06. There's a beta for the editor too. Which would make it a what? A beta beta? A double beta? 🤔

EDIT: I got it working. All I had to do was start the game without the STM 4GB patch .exe/shortcut. Which means no STM. Big surprise...NOT! Looks like I need to reinstall ReShade too. Since I installed it using the 4GB patch .exe.

posted in MudRunner - General Discussion read more

@mexican_420 Well...I was right. And...I was wrong. I was right that you used to be able to. And I was wrong that you can't do it anymore. You still can. It appears to be linked to the vehicle position parameter that causes the engine to stall. Meaning, if the vehicle is in a position that the engine could be running you can steer. Even if the engine isn't running. Which is even stupider IMO. You can steer without the engine running. But not if the vehicle is too far tipped(or fully rolled) over. Like somehow the steering would ever lock up based on that. Retarded...

BTW, I guess I'll have to call my own BS on the "no vehicles in this game would have fully hydraulic steering IRL" statement. There's one that most certainly would(and does). The K-700. The rest though...nope. Even the 8x8s only have hydraulically-assisted (a.k.a. power) steering IRL.

posted in MudRunner - Modding read more

It seems like such a stupid thing to me. Like how could they possibly mess that up? All workshop content, maps and vehicle mods, are in the same folder. All manually installed maps and vehicle mods are in a different folder. How did they make it so that manually installed maps don't work, but manually installed vehicle mods still do?. It seems like it would take some effort to make that happen. Like they did it intentionally for some stupid reason.

We could debate the merits of even having maps in the workshop in the first place. I understand why some folks are wanting it so badly, and are so excited to get it. Personally though, I don't want it at all. I don't feel like it solves any real problem. Works just fine for me as it is. So to me it's an "if it ain't broke...DON'T FIX IT!" thing. Why? For the same reasons that applies to anything. You might just end up breaking it in the process of trying to "make it better". And you will usually end up adding some complexity to an otherwise simpler system. Which violates the K.I.S.S. principle(Keep It Simple Stupid!). Because added complexity = more things to go wrong = bad idea...almost invariably.

posted in MudRunner - Modding read more

@drgonzo1489 I'm running game version 29/01/18b(with the stock exe) + the old LAA/4GB patch(d3dx9_43.dll) + STM 1.6.11 + ReShade installed as dxgi.dll. And everything works perfectly. Meaning STM 1.6.11 does support game version 29/01/18b. I know it doesn't make any sense based on how previous versions of STM functioned. But it is mentioned in the release notes that 1.6.11 does support some older versions of the game.

I've also discovered the same thing is happening with the editor. If I run the editor with the SpinTiresEditor4GbPatched.exe it loads the beta version of the editor. Which is even more broken than the beta version of the game. So I've uninstalled the beta and switched to using the stock exe and the old LAA/4GB patch with that too.

posted in MudRunner - Modding read more

@Mexican_420 Ok. Here's the deal. I'd never tried the weather mod until just now. I've been "saving it for a rainy day"(pun intended 😛). So I had to do a bunch of with and without STM installed comparisons just to get an idea what's going on, or not going on, with it.. And my system kept crashing on me the whole time, for some reason(I think it's because of that old LAA/4GB patch that's never seemed to work that great for me). Which is why it took me so long. Now, I'm not 100% sure on this. But I can't really tell any difference. I'm not really sure what it's supposed to look like either. But so far as I can tell it looks the same with or without STM installed. Maybe I'm doing it wrong though. I dunno...😕

Anyway...I'd get a second opinion. I'm not very confident in the one I'm giving you.

Side note: It's a pretty cool mod. Looks a lot better than I thought it would even.

posted in MudRunner - Modding read more

Try with the beta game version 18_01_29b. With game version 18/03/06 you can't play manually installed maps. ONLY workshop maps.

posted in MudRunner - Modding read more

@rufus It doesn't have anything to do with FA/CC. It's the way the gearbox operates.

1 = 1st gear
1+ = "High" gear
Auto = All gears(exc. 1+)
R = Reverse

For example:

<Motor MaxDeltaAngVel="0.01" Torque="42000">
    <ReverseGear AngVel="0.5" /> R
    <HighGear AngVel="6.0" /> 1+
    <Gear AngVel="1.0" /> 1st
    <Gear AngVel="3.5" /> 2nd
    <Gear AngVel="5.0" /> 3rd
    <Gear AngVel="6.5" /> 4th
    <Gear AngVel="8.0" /> 5th
</Motor>

AngVel is equivalent to wheel speed. The gearbox above is setup as a 5-speed. Even though it has 6 forward speeds, if you include 1+. And, speed-wise, 1+/HighGear is between 3rd and 4th in this instance.

Also, I think the reason why some vehicles can run at lower speeds in 1+ without stalling has to do with the Torque value. More torque = less likely to stall. I'm not 100% sure about that. But it would make sense if that were the case.

posted in MudRunner - Modding read more

You do need to quick press the right analog stick button to select/deselect the shifter. When the shifter isn't selected the right analog stick just moves the camera. To select/deselect FA/CC you need to press and HOLD the right analoq stick button, until the indicator on the shifter lights up/goes dark.
0_1525133133826_Controls.jpg

posted in MudRunner - Modding read more

@Malcolm_Tucker I figured it out. It's because the CenterOfMassOffset is set too low(too far downward/negative along the Y axis). You can fix it by making the middle value(Y axis) in the CenterOfMassOffset line more positive. Which makes complete sense if you can envision in your mind's eye how the vehicle would act if the majority of its weight was centered below the height of the axles(which is how it's been set in this instance). The reason vehicles behave the way they do IRL is because that's not the case.

For example:

<PhysicsModel Mesh="trucks/bmb6l9q">
    <Body
        CenterOfMassOffset="(0.1; -1.400; 0)"
	ImpactType="Truck"
	Mass="3230"
    />
</PhysicsModel>

Change to:

<PhysicsModel Mesh="trucks/bmb6l9q">
    <Body
        CenterOfMassOffset="(0.1; -0.6; 0)"
	ImpactType="Truck"
	Mass="3230"
    />
</PhysicsModel>

I used the -0.6 value from the other 98 Discovery mod which behaves correctly. I don't know exactly how much, or how little, adjustment actually needs to be made to totally fix it. But I tested it with that value, and it seems to work much better.

posted in MudRunner - Modding read more

So...there's already a 64Bit DX11 version of the game. Which somehow only runs on XBox One and PS4. Even though PS4 doesn't have DX11. And, even though it's the same DX11 as on PCs, it can't run on a PC. And it needs to be DX11, because it has to be 64Bit, even though DX11 is backwards compatible with DX9(which is not 64Bit). And the reason there's no 64Bit DX11 version for PC is so Russians can still play the game on Windows XP. Even though there could be both a 32Bit DX9 version and a 64Bit DX11 version. Which there supposedly already is. Sounds like the only thing missing is the explanation of how vastly different the version of DX11 on XB1 is from the version of DX11 on PC. Which is why it's not backwards compatible with earlier DX versions, and why it would be impossible to port DX11 games from XB1 to PC(or vice versa). Makes perfect sense! Looks and smells like a huge pile of bullshit. But don't mind that...

posted in MudRunner - Modding read more

@riskywisky said in 64BIT.EXE- More Memory!!!!:

...the LAA thing that LocalHost made for the old game... it converts the game everytime you launch it (from 32 bit to 64 bit), making the game be able to run faster.

That's not how it works. It makes 32-bit applications Large Address Aware. Which lets 32-bit applications access up to 4GB on a 64-bit OS(or up to 3GB on a 32-bit OS using the /3GB switch). 64-bit applications can access up to 8TB(on a 64-bit OS...obviously).

SpintiresMod also has 4GB patched executables for MudRunner and the editor(as well as old ST and the combine tools).

posted in MudRunner - Modding read more

I'm going to try and keep this short and sweet. Since there's really only a few things you NEED to know to get started.

  1. The file format is DDS R16F. Which is a compression-less 2D image/surface format(compression-less, 16-bit floating-point surface format, 16 bits for the red channel). The height map you will be trying to use will most likely not start out in that format. So what? Exactly. Do you really need to use some expensive photo editing software(ie. Photoshop) to save it as DDS R16F before using it in the editor? No. You most certainly DO NOT. I suggest you use paint dot net to save it as DDS R8G8B8(compression-less, 24-bit RGB pixel format, 8 bits per channel). Then have the editor convert that to DDS R16F for you. Which it will as soon as you make even the tiniest geometry edit, rebuild terrain, and save. BAM! DDS R16F conversion complete. PHOTOSHOP NOT REQUIRED!

  2. The size of the height map in pixels². Terrain.party downloads of the 8km x 8km size will be 1081x1081 pixels. That works fine in the editor, and doesn't need resized. I don't know what size is "too big" or "too small". I do know that the height maps generated by the editor are 961x961 pixels(if a squared size was used to create it, as in the length and width were the same value).

  3. And this is the kicker...the Height Map Max Value. YOU DO NOT NEED TO MESS WITH THE BRIGHTNESS OR CONTRAST OF THE HEIGHT MAP IMAGE TO ACHIEVE MORE REALISTIC HEIGHT DIFFERENTIALS! You can. But it's not the best way to do it IMO. If you want a more realistic height differential scenario(greater elevation, and greater changes in elevation) just use SpintiresMod with the editor. When you do you will have the option of changing the Height Map Max Value. The reason your imported height map looks so blah...is because the Height Map Max Value is in the editor is WAY TOO LOW by default! It's 64m by default. Meaning the difference in height between the lowest point on the map and the heighest point on the map can only be 64m. Weak sauce! I can jump that high(not really...but you get my point). Anyway, using STM you can set the Height Map Max Value in incremental values ranging from 64m(default) all the way up to 4096m. And the results you'll see from doing so can be spectacular. You will probably get some "stepping" in the elevation changes(you'll see what I mean by that). But these can easily be fixed using the geometry height tool/brush in flatten mode. The Height Map Max Values for maps made using STM are stored in an XML file named _mod in the map's prebuild folder. You can change the value there and save it, or from within the editor.

_mod.xml example:

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<TerrainMod>
    <MaxHeight>512</MaxHeight>
</TerrainMod>

From within the editor:

0_1526756741417_mountian.PNG

And that's the basic gist of it. Pretty simple and easy stuff really. I'll add more tips and tricks if/when I find them.